Mavrodaphne Of Patras

Greek Cahor

On the eve of the Christmas holidays, it is worth remembering two unusual red wines — French Cahors and Greek Mavrodaphne — both regarded as sacred church wines and used in the Christian tradition in the sacrament of Holy Communion.

In southwestern France, east of Bordeaux, lie some of the country’s oldest vineyards, first planted as early as 50 BC by winemakers of the Roman Empire. Here, above a bend in the picturesque Lot River, stands the small town of Cahors, famous since ancient times for its “black” wine. This “black wine” was made from the local Malbec grape, which gave the drink its deep, saturated colour, and the wine took its name from the town itself — Cahors.

The main difference between Cahors and other wines lies in its special method of production. At a certain stage of fermentation, the wine is heated for about a day and held at approximately 65°C, after which it is brought to the desired strength by adding grape spirit. The result is a strong, dense, sweet wine of rich, inky-black colour, with a soft, velvety taste and pronounced notes reminiscent of jam. The French refer to this style as “cooked” wine. In its aroma, one can detect notes of black berries, plum, cherry, and even coffee. A true Cahors should contain about 16% sugar and 16% alcohol. It belongs to the category of sweet dessert wines, and by international classification it comes close to a liqueur wine.

In the Middle Ages, the fame of this “black wine” spread throughout Europe. It was loved by Roman emperors, popes, and the kings of France and England. Pope John XXII, a native of Cahors, showered his hometown with privileges and was an ardent admirer of its wines. During his papacy, he ordered Cahors to be used in church sacraments. By the middle of the 18th century, Cahors was also being discussed in Russia. The fashion for this unusual French wine was introduced by Peter the Great. The tart wine greatly appealed to the tsar, who drank it on the advice of physicians as a remedy for digestive problems. At the end of the 19th century, the Holy Synod of the Russian Empire approved Cahors imported from France for Communion. By agreement with the French side, “black” Cahors began to be supplied to Russia specifically for the Orthodox Church.

After the revolution, however, all deliveries of French Cahors ceased, and Russia gradually began mastering the technology of producing Cahors in Crimea. Since 1933, the Massandra winery has produced a wine called Cahors, similar to the one once imported from France, although strictly speaking it is not true Cahors, since it is made from a different grape variety — Saperavi.

In Greece, the wine Mavrodaphne is unofficially referred to as “Cahors” because it is used for Communion by the Greek Orthodox Church. This sweet wine, made from the local indigenous Mavrodaphne grape, is comparable to Cahors both in taste and in the depth of its colour. Mavrodaphne vineyards are located in southern Greece, near the main city of the Peloponnese, Patras, on hillsides 300 to 500 metres high overlooking the Gulf of Patras in the Ionian Sea. The word “mavros” in Greek means “black,” so the full name of the grape and the wine translates from Greek as “black laurel.”

Today, in the Vintages section of the LCBO, one can find the sweet red wine “Deus Mavrodaphne of Patras,” made by the winemakers of Cavino. In 2014, it received a score of 90 points from Wine and Spirits magazine. It is sold in decorative, old-fashioned curved bottles and contains 70% Mavrodaphne grapes, with the addition of 30% of another no less unique grape — Black Corinth, better known as Corinthian raisin or the currant of the Ionian island of Zakynthos, also known as Zante currant. This is another ancient local grape variety, with small, sweet, seedless berries, described as early as AD 75 by Pliny the Elder. It was in Corinth that the Apostle Paul preached Christianity. Here, then, is a kind of time machine — a chance to taste an “apostolic wine.”

In the production of Mavrodaphne, at a certain stage of grape-must fermentation, alcoholic fermentation is stopped by the addition of spirit, preserving part of the grape’s natural sugars in the finished wine. In this way, a naturally sweet red wine is obtained without added sugar. Then, in order for the wine to develop its complex aroma, it is aged for 12 months in oak barrels. Produced in this way, the wine acquires its alluring sweetness and elegant bouquet.

Mavrodaphne is a dark, almost opaque wine of noble ruby colour with violet-brown reflections. It has a delicate aroma of dried fruits — plum, figs, and raisins. Its taste charms with notes of coffee and chocolate, which immediately lift the mood. The finish is light and pleasant, with warm sweet tones of fruitcake layered over gentle tannins. In this wine, sweetness does not dominate; rather, it highlights the bouquet. The wine has an alcohol content of 15%. It is best served at a temperature of 12–15°C.

Mavrodaphne pairs beautifully with spicy foods, especially sharp cheeses, as well as nuts, ice cream, and fruit desserts. Greek cuisine also recommends adding it when preparing meat dishes, such as the well-known meatballs in tomato sauce.

In Greece, Mavrodaphne is one of the most beloved wines, and today, thanks to its unique taste and excellent quality, it has admirers all over the world.